Prada's undying reverence for Yves Saint Laurent is a strong strand of her design DNA, and there were echoes of YSL's notorious 1971 collection, the one that was scandalously inspired by the shady ladies of Paris in the early 1940's.
That old-time raciness was reflected in the "come hither" neon brightness of Miu Miu's color palette, carried over into armfuls of bracelets, and prints of apples and hearts whose cuteness was.
The languid line of a keyhole-neckline crepe dress or the masculine/feminine flared, cuffed cotton drill pants paired with a fitted military jacket could have been out of Dietrich's closet (her again!), except that the
designer preferred the more playful, less ambiguous comedienne Carole Lombard as a reference. "Keep things simplest" is Miuccia's new mantra.
Word to the lookbook: one of the most seductive re-creations yet of the glamorous harpies who ruled the pages of Vogue Paris in the heady seventies.
As far as the historical references go, Miuccia's convinced nobody remembers anything anyway, which means that Miu Miu fans will find irresistibly colored clothes in proportions that look sexy and new to them.
"Stylish travel" was the stated theme of Frida Giannini's latest collection, though it could be argued that the concept has been part and parcel of Gucci since its inception.
Working with a neutral palette of khaki, rust, and army green for day, the designer turned out a waxed cotton trench, sporty silk jumpsuit with elastic waist, and whisper-thin leather biker jacket.
There was a bit of military and a lot of urban cool in the look, which reflected the simplified, back-to-brand-basics approach Giannini has been taking of late. A series of saddle-printed silks smartly nodded to Gucci's rich heritage, as did a chain-strap purse with gold logo based on a design from the seventies.
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